We recently got to trade our obnoxious heat for some cooler temps, and boy did Greenville deliver.
Lucky for me, our home away from home was along the Reedy River, steps from the famed Falls Park on the Reedy. How this is not on the cover of magazines escapes me. We started and ended each day here.
We squeezed in a late dinner upon arrival then walked off some calories and I got my first glimpse of the falls. Seeing the falls lit up from the bank is beautiful, but holy cow it is amazing while walking across Liberty Bridge. It’s a suspension bridge, built just for pedestrian traffic in 2003, that arcs over the river almost like a smile.
The Reedy River winds down from it’s source in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains. There is a colorful history involving the river consisting of pollution, neglect and resurgence. Mills of many kinds thrived and died along the banks, including textile mills that would change the color of the river depending on what color they were dying that day. It’s hard to see the ugly side while looking at all the beauty that surrounds the river now.
Our hotel sat near the top, or at least that’s how I saw it, overlooking the water and Wyche Pavilion. This beautiful brick shell was built in 1904 as a carriage factory paint building back in the day. It’s now a popular wedding venue.
The path on the other side of the river was closed during our visit due building construction. It looks like two huge buildings going up. That was totally fine for me because the open side was pretty enough to keep me interested. There are shops, open air cafes, restaurants and “parks within the park” along the path and up along the park edge.
The path winds up and down both sides, with the open side meandering past the official park boundaries. Swamp Rabbit Trail runs through the park and will take you along 22 miles of walking/running/biking and it is popular. The path is wide with park benches and trees providing nice shade for our autumn trip.
One of the little parks within the park that I had to see was the Cancer Survivor’s Park, just south of Liberty Bridge. As you already know, I’m a five-year survivor. It’s billed as a place to create a space for celebration, learning, healing and hope. The Center for Hope and Healing was closed during our visit, thanks Covid. It sure would have been nice to see what they do inside. Instead, it was a walk around, or I should say a beautiful walk around. Access for me was across a bridge, The Spirit Bridge, how appropriate. I have a friend currently battling right now and I thought of her fighting spirit every step.
There is an amphitheater that I’m sure is busy every weekend with events not in this crazy pandemic time. I picture the children’s garden to be full of children playing and parents celebrating their child during normal times. There are plants everywhere, for me symbolizing renewal and growth that is reminiscent of the cancer journey.
The street side entrance struck me. To me it looks like an open heart made of butterflies. The thyroid is often called a butterfly organ because it kind of looks like one. Many thyroid cancer items have a butterfly. Fighting cancer is often paralleled with a butterfly, the fight being inside the dark cocoon then emerging victoriously as the beautiful butterfly. Forever changed with the original caterpillar still there inside of you. I looked at it and smiled, thinking of my own victory. I guess it was a good thing I was all alone that morning because there were more than a few tears shed as I walked around.
I did venture out from Falls Park, I promise!
The first day I just walked. Up and down the park and through downtown. It was a cool, sunny day and I couldn’t get enough of being outside wearing pants! I had lunch outside at a cute café, Mary’s at Falls Cottage. I covered 7 miles and enjoyed every step.
The next day after a nice morning walk along the river I headed out to see what I could. Few museums were open, thanks again Covid, so my options were limited. Confederacy was on my mind since we were in the South. The Museum and Library of Confederate History was open and free, which works well for me. And the walk wasn’t far. This day was warmer and I carried my light flannel shirt without ever putting it on.
This museum was in an historical neighborhood, being an old house itself. I was the only person there so I could go at my own pace. There is a lot of memorabilia, I mean a lot. Lots of old uniforms, knives and guns. Oh, the guns, I think they may have every single leftover confederate gun. It was interesting seeing the variety, from tiny ones to long rifles. Special reference was made of one gun, the same kind that killed President Lincoln. I had to dig deep in my history class memory bank for the tidbit that John Wilkes Booth was a Confederate sympathizer. That got me thinking, was the assassination celebrated in Greenville? This was the only piece referencing it so left thinking the answer was probably not.
A huge pair of shoes caught my eye. Huge, like Shaquille O’Neal huge. They belonged to the tallest Confederate soldier standing in at 7 feet, 7.5 inches. My Mark is usually the tallest guy in the room at 6’5″ and he is 14.5 inches shorter than Mr. Henry Clay Thruston!
The medical section was fascinating. With over 600,000 soldiers injured on both sides, there was bound to be some ingenuity and medical advancements made. The first recorded amputee also happened to be an engineering student who constructed his own prosthesis. His artificial limb is the centerpiece among differently fashioned crutches and surgical items. Then there’s Nina, the smuggling doll. She and other dolls were used throughout the Confederate lines to smuggle morphine and quinine. Ingenuity indeed.
After lunch I headed back out again, this time to the Kilgore-Lewis House since it was open and free. It was built about 1838 as a wedding gift for his daughter. It was moved from it’s original location next to Buncombe Street United Methodist Church in 1974 when the Greenville Council of Garden Clubs stepped in to save it. The church gave it to them, all the club had to do was move it.
I had a wonderful tour of the house given by one of the two garden club ladies that were working that day. She was excited to show me around. It was just the two of us and it felt more like she was showing me her home. Silly me didn’t take a single picture inside! Many of the furnishings are period pieces although none of them were actually owned by the family. One desk, a man’s desk, dated to the late 1700’s. She told me about the fundraising to pay for moving the house consisting of countless bake sales, rummage sales, and raffles. A popular fundraiser was selling scarves made by club members.
My total mileage walked on day two was 11.2 miles. According to my watch I climbed 19 flights of stairs totaling over 24,000 steps.
I covered a lot of history in two days. I hope more things are open on our return trip. I really want to see the Shoeless Joe Jackson Museum.